Umhlanga Rocks – The new heart of KZN

Less than 20km north of Durban City Centre lies Umhlanga Rocks. An upmarket area, Umhlanga Rocks has been the hottest holiday destination on Durban’s North Coast for many years. From humble beginnings as a small town, Umhlanga has grown in popularity (both with locals and holidaymakers) and is now not only one of the top travel destinations in South Africa, receiving thousands of holiday makers every year, but also Durban’s new city centre. 

The development of the Gateway shopping centre, once the largest shopping centre in the Southern Hemisphere, just over 10 years ago put Umhlanga firmly on the map and spearheaded the transformation from small holiday town into central business hub. More and more businesses would move away from Durban centre in search of a better environment and Umhlanga Ridge became the natural choice. This in turn attracted more people to the area and soon the Ridge was booming with offices and apartments.

This growth has certainly changed the complexion of the once small town, but has done nothing to deter its loyal holidaymakers, and why should it? The expansion of the town has been executed perfectly, positioning the business centre in close proximity to the old village, but not entering into it. Holiday makers are thus afforded the tranquillity (if you can call beaches and streets bursting with sunburnt people tranquil) of the Umhlanga village, while being just a stone’s throw away from a thriving metropolis. The choice to venture into the hub of activity that is Umhlanga Ridge remains with the individual, which is fortunate indeed. 

While Umhlanga is not the prettiest or most serene holiday destination along Durban’s North Coast (see my articles on Umdloti & Glenashley), it does cater for a different market. The Umhlanga beachfront is jam-packed with skyscraper hotels and this is synechdochic of the town in the holiday season - everything is packed, everywhere you look there are people. Umhlanga is definitely the place to see or be seen. It is very busy and has a distinct energy about it. It offers plenty of choice in both activity, dining or partying. It is much more suited to an active holidayer. It is therefore no surprise that this town is the mecca of Matric holidays, where students come to celebrate the end of their tenure at school.

What to do in Umhlanga

Umhlanga has no shortage of activities. The beach is always a good start, and offers good swimming areas as well as decent surfing conditions. Take a walk along the promenade and drink in the sights and sounds of Umhlanga beach front, There are also ample shops and restaurants in which to grab a bite or sit and watch the waves.

Chartwell drive, the Umhlanga village main strip, also has ample restaurants and pubs to pass the hot lunch time hours in.

On rainy days most people flock to the Gateway shopping centre, to meander around or hit the movies. The centre also houses a virgin active gym, climbing wall, skate park and standing wave for surfing and is well worth a visit.

Umhlanga Nightlife

This is where Umhlanga really begins to differentiate itself from its smaller neighbours. With a huge selection of restaurants scattered around Umhlanga Rocks and Umhlanga Ridge, visitors are spoilt for choice, just remember to book in season as the best restaurants are often full.

Chartwell drive is usually busy from the afternoon and with a good few hot spots in close proximity it is a wonderful place to have a party. Simply pub hop in the safe and friendly environment. The party usually focuses around the George, an old school pub in the centre of Chartwell drive. Umhlanga is also home to a nightclub XS.

For the more serious party animals, Umhlanga is close enough to venture into Durban’s town centre, which is still the home of many of the region’s best clubs. Remember to have a designated driver or to have arranged one, as South Africa (and KZN especially) is very strict on drinking and driving. Here is more info on designated driver services in South Africa.

Umhlanga Accommodation

Umhlanga offers every kind of accommodation under the sun. From major hotel chains to small guesthouses, you will be able to find exactly what you are looking for. Being a popular holiday destination though, you are likely to pay a premium for this accommodation, especially in season. For reviews on places I have stayed within Umhlanga visit my page: Umhlanga Accommodation

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On the beach – Glenashley Accommodation

Set in the quiet suburb of Glenashley, On the Beach backpackers is a wonderful retreat for any weary traveller. The establishment,  aptly named “On the beach”, is in fact right on the beach and from the front balcony one is caressed by both the sight and sound of the Indian ocean. 

The backpackers is conveniently located close to the Glenore shopping centre, which has a supermarket and various restaurants. Short of supplies, On the beach has everything one needs to kick back and relax – a beautiful setting, proximity to the beach and peace and quiet. 

We booked a triple en-suite room in the front section of the backpackers are were happy to find that our room opened onto the large wooden balcony where we were able to sip on a drink and watch the sun set over the sea. The room itself was simple, spacious and clean, containing a double bed and a single bed. A television (which we didn’t use) being the only other luxury afforded us. The bathroom was equally spacious, as was the enormous Jacuzzi-like bath. All in all, well worth the R700 price tag per night (a simple breakfast of cereal, fruit, toast, fruit juice, tea and coffee included).

View from our balcony - On the beach

Triple en-suite room

Our bathroom, complete with hot tub!

 

On the beach backpackers also has many communal facilities and areas, which are available for use by the guests including a swimming pool for the hot summer days, and a bar for the hot summer nights. Many of the guests congregate around these attractions and I met many an interesting soul over a quiet beer. This is what staying in a backpackers is really about, the people. Composed of all walks of life, I have often found that backpackers are generally warm and friendly.

The swimming pool and outside chill area at On the beach

The communal bar area, doubles as a breakfast nook

The bar - would you like a warm beverage or a cold one?

The staff at On the beach were equally warm and friendly and I would definitely recommend this establishment to anyone who is interested in a quiet, relaxing, yet not altogether isolated environment. 

For more information about On the Beach backpackers in Glenashley visit http://www.durbanbackpackers.com/

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Glenashley – Experience Durban as the locals do

Kwazulu Natal on South Africa’s east coast has a very temperate climate and beautiful scenery. It is therefore no surprise that holiday makers flock to this coastal paradise all year round. There are many different destinations to choose from, depending on what you are looking for in your little getaway.

Nestled between two of the country’s holiday hotspots of Durban and Umhlanga is the residential suburb of Glenashley. This quiet town is not quite so synonymous with tourists as its neighbours and is largely a residential suburb. That is not to say that it doesn’t have its share of visitors, but those who do stay in the Durban North town of Glenashley will be presented with a very different side of Durban. Glenashley shares many of the traits of fellow North Coast gem Umdloti.

In Glenashley, one would be hard pressed to find massive hotels or holiday apartments in which to set up camp; or pubs, clubs and restaurants lining the promenade. In fact, unlike Umhlanga and Durban, there isn’t even a promenade, the peaceful beach is bordered by a simple beachfront road, littered with some of the most beautiful homes in Durban. These homes are largely owned by Durban’s wealthy and this makes Glenashley a very classy suburb.

With big properties located right on the beach, the setting is ideal for Bed and Breakfast establishments and backpackers, and many of these exist on Glenashley’s beachfront road, amptly named “The Promenade”. These idyllic mansions offer holiday makers the opportunity to experience the chilled lifestyle that Glenashley first hand.

Glenashley is a great place to visit if you wish to get involved in the local Durban and enjoy the beauty that Kwazulu Natal offers whilst staying clear of the hub bub of the tourist masses.

Glenashley Ammenities

Glenashley is conveniently located a mere 10km from Durban’s city centre and 7km from Umhlanga Rocks, the two major cities along Kwazulu Natal’s North Coast.

There are various shopping centres and restaurants in Glenashley, and many more in the neighbouring suburb of La Lucia.

Glenashley Accommodation

Most of the accommodation in Glenashley comes in the form of Bed and Breakfasts, though there are backpackers and self catering homes available. The vast majority of these are found on the beachfront and overlook the picturesque Indian ocean and undeveloped Glenashley beach.

Follow this link for reviews on places I have stayed within Glenashley: Glenashley Accommodation

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Umdloti – A North Coast Paradise

The term paradise is often associated with white sandy beaches, palm trees and cocktails with little straw hats. Paradise is often a destination, the end of a journey, somewhere to forget about life for a while. While this by no means incorrect, it does somewhat short change many other holiday destinations, who may not check the quintessential paradisiacal boxes, and yet when given a fair shot, make a compelling case that they too are deserved of the adjective.

Umdloti, on the North coast of Durban, South Africa is one of these towns. It has everything that the modern traveller could possibly desire, and offers a host of other conveniences that traditional paradises often don’t. So, what makes Umdloti so special? I’m glad you asked.

Umdloti is a truly beautiful place

Let’s start with the obvious, without which the rest of the points would be nullified. Beauty. Umdloti has one of the most beautiful stretches of beach on the Kwazulu Natal coast. Spanning about 4km, the Umdloti beach is grand enough to allow everyone their own peace of heaven. The surrounding Umdloti landscape is lush green and filled with both bird- and wildlife. Once could easily be tricked into believing they were lounging on a desert island, the outside world but a distant memory. Most of the accommodation is also built onto a hillside, which means that sweeping views of the ocean come standard.

Coupled with this paramount beauty is a peace which only small towns can deliver. The North Coast of Kwazulu Natal is famous for its larger towns of Umhlanga and Ballito which are hives of activity. This is not the case with Umdloti, where there appears to be no cause for rush or stress - just ask the man driving down the road on his scooter with his small canine in hand, or the sun kissed young boy skateboarding towards the ocean, his surfboard under one arm. The problems of the real world do not exist here, there is a contagious calm and inner peace.

The Climate in Umdloti

The Kwazulu Natal coast region, Umdloti included, has one of the best climates in the world. With hot humid summers and warm winters.  Though summer is peak season, it can become unbearably hot and air conditioning is often required to get through the night. Still, South African holiday makers flock by the thousand to Umdloti during December to bask in the hot sun and frolic in the ocean. Winter however is the best time of the year for me, as the days are warm and the nights cool. There are also additional benefits at this time of year as the swell size and consistency improves, not to mention the fact there are a lot less people.

Umdloti  is conveniently located

Here is where Umdloti really begins to pull one over on the traditional paradises. While it remains a small town nestled in the cane fields, Umdloti is a mere stones through from the South Africa's King Shaka international airport and a short 7km from the bustling metropolis of Umhlanga. This essentially means that not only is it a breeze to get to and from Umdloti, but that if ever the peace and quiet afforded by Umdloti overwhelm you, within 10 minutes you may once more revel in the hustle and bustle of a city. Which other paradisiacal destination can offer such a choice whilst remaining true to its definition?

Surfing in Umdloti

What paradise would be complete without epic surf? Umdloti really picks up the swell and has some of the heaviest waves in Durban.  Many surfers come to Umdloti from all over the coast when the conditions are right to tackle the harsh conditions, though this is not for the feint hearted. That being said, it is not always vicious, and beginners too can play in the waves when mother nature shows her softer side. Surf and sea are a huge part of Umdloti life and add that little bit of excitement to the long relaxing days.

Surf shops in Umdloti 

The nearest surfshops are in Umhlanga and Ballito, but online surf store Pollywog.co.za delivers to this area. 

Umdloti Nightlife

For a small town, Umdloti has some classy restaurants which even attract the Durban locals. These eateries invariably face the ocean, so that diners are treated to beautiful seascapes as they feast on some of the finest cuisine. The famous local pub “The Bush Tavern” has been a local favourite for years and can get a little wilder as the evening progresses. If however you are looking to paint the town red, you may be better off taking a taxi-cab to Umhlanga for the evening.

Restaurants currently located in Umdloti:

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• Java Cafe – coffee shop
• Bel Punto – Italian
• Mundo Vida - Mediterranean
• The Bush Tavern – Pub and Grill
• La Casa Nostra – Italian
• La Tasca – Pizzeria
• Rendezvous - Mediterranean

Umdloti Accommodation

Umdloti offers a huge variety of homely accommodation from self catering holiday homes and apartments for rent to bed and breakfast rooms. There are not big hotels or resorts, which helps to keep the town relaxed. Almost all the accommodation is within walking distance to the sea and will likely have sea views. For reviews on all the places I have stayed in Umdloti, please click here: Umdloti Accommodation

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