Surf trip to Bali

Bali is one of the Meccas of surfing - that much is undeniable. As a surfer, one simply has to visit this Indonesian surf wonderland.

This winter, a few friends and I decided to visit Bali on a whim. Enter the holiday honeymoon phase, where planning and dreaming are unperturbed by the realities that will soon follow. And so we started looking online for where to visit, flights, accommodation, surf spots and most importantly... some new surfboards.

I was tempted into buying a Haydenshapes HyptoKrypto which I had found on local online surf shop Pollywog.I wanted to the extra buoyancy for the legendary reef waves of Indonesia.

Getting to Bali 

We flew into Despensar with Singapore airlines. With just one stop in Singapore, we were in Bali quite tired but raring to go. Our choice of area was the Bukit peninsular, home to some of the most famous surf breaks in the world.

Surfing the Bukit 

Upon arrival, we quickly got to work on finding some waves. We were staying in Bingin and so took the steep staircase down to Bingin beach, where we found small waves and quite a few crowds. Still, we got one or two and then set about resting and preparing for the days that come.
We surfed dreamland on a big swell, and Impossibles on a small swell. But the highlight had to be surfing Uluwatu... its a crazy, intense experience and life-changing to say the least. I would encourage any surfer (with decent surf experience) to paddle out at Uluwatu.

Surfing Keramas

Keramas is also one of the famous waves in Bali, made more so by the WSL coming to town. The break is directly in front of the Komune hotel, where we stayed. It's definitely a worthwhile experience. Lovely accommodation, cheap massages, a great restaurant (with cold beers) overlooking a world-class right hander.
From Keramas, we also took a day trip to Nusa Lembongan, where we surfed shipwrecks and drank more cold Bintangs (notice the theme here).

All in all, Bali was totally worth the visit. It truly is a special place to visit and more so to surf.

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Umhlanga Rocks – The new heart of KZN

Less than 20km north of Durban City Centre lies Umhlanga Rocks. An upmarket area, Umhlanga Rocks has been the hottest holiday destination on Durban’s North Coast for many years. From humble beginnings as a small town, Umhlanga has grown in popularity (both with locals and holidaymakers) and is now not only one of the top travel destinations in South Africa, receiving thousands of holiday makers every year, but also Durban’s new city centre. 

The development of the Gateway shopping centre, once the largest shopping centre in the Southern Hemisphere, just over 10 years ago put Umhlanga firmly on the map and spearheaded the transformation from small holiday town into central business hub. More and more businesses would move away from Durban centre in search of a better environment and Umhlanga Ridge became the natural choice. This in turn attracted more people to the area and soon the Ridge was booming with offices and apartments.

This growth has certainly changed the complexion of the once small town, but has done nothing to deter its loyal holidaymakers, and why should it? The expansion of the town has been executed perfectly, positioning the business centre in close proximity to the old village, but not entering into it. Holiday makers are thus afforded the tranquillity (if you can call beaches and streets bursting with sunburnt people tranquil) of the Umhlanga village, while being just a stone’s throw away from a thriving metropolis. The choice to venture into the hub of activity that is Umhlanga Ridge remains with the individual, which is fortunate indeed. 

While Umhlanga is not the prettiest or most serene holiday destination along Durban’s North Coast (see my articles on Umdloti & Glenashley), it does cater for a different market. The Umhlanga beachfront is jam-packed with skyscraper hotels and this is synechdochic of the town in the holiday season - everything is packed, everywhere you look there are people. Umhlanga is definitely the place to see or be seen. It is very busy and has a distinct energy about it. It offers plenty of choice in both activity, dining or partying. It is much more suited to an active holidayer. It is therefore no surprise that this town is the mecca of Matric holidays, where students come to celebrate the end of their tenure at school.

What to do in Umhlanga

Umhlanga has no shortage of activities. The beach is always a good start, and offers good swimming areas as well as decent surfing conditions. Take a walk along the promenade and drink in the sights and sounds of Umhlanga beach front, There are also ample shops and restaurants in which to grab a bite or sit and watch the waves.

Chartwell drive, the Umhlanga village main strip, also has ample restaurants and pubs to pass the hot lunch time hours in.

On rainy days most people flock to the Gateway shopping centre, to meander around or hit the movies. The centre also houses a virgin active gym, climbing wall, skate park and standing wave for surfing and is well worth a visit.

Umhlanga Nightlife

This is where Umhlanga really begins to differentiate itself from its smaller neighbours. With a huge selection of restaurants scattered around Umhlanga Rocks and Umhlanga Ridge, visitors are spoilt for choice, just remember to book in season as the best restaurants are often full.

Chartwell drive is usually busy from the afternoon and with a good few hot spots in close proximity it is a wonderful place to have a party. Simply pub hop in the safe and friendly environment. The party usually focuses around the George, an old school pub in the centre of Chartwell drive. Umhlanga is also home to a nightclub XS.

For the more serious party animals, Umhlanga is close enough to venture into Durban’s town centre, which is still the home of many of the region’s best clubs. Remember to have a designated driver or to have arranged one, as South Africa (and KZN especially) is very strict on drinking and driving. Here is more info on designated driver services in South Africa.

Umhlanga Accommodation

Umhlanga offers every kind of accommodation under the sun. From major hotel chains to small guesthouses, you will be able to find exactly what you are looking for. Being a popular holiday destination though, you are likely to pay a premium for this accommodation, especially in season. For reviews on places I have stayed within Umhlanga visit my page: Umhlanga Accommodation

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On the beach – Glenashley Accommodation

Set in the quiet suburb of Glenashley, On the Beach backpackers is a wonderful retreat for any weary traveller. The establishment,  aptly named “On the beach”, is in fact right on the beach and from the front balcony one is caressed by both the sight and sound of the Indian ocean. 

The backpackers is conveniently located close to the Glenore shopping centre, which has a supermarket and various restaurants. Short of supplies, On the beach has everything one needs to kick back and relax – a beautiful setting, proximity to the beach and peace and quiet. 

We booked a triple en-suite room in the front section of the backpackers are were happy to find that our room opened onto the large wooden balcony where we were able to sip on a drink and watch the sun set over the sea. The room itself was simple, spacious and clean, containing a double bed and a single bed. A television (which we didn’t use) being the only other luxury afforded us. The bathroom was equally spacious, as was the enormous Jacuzzi-like bath. All in all, well worth the R700 price tag per night (a simple breakfast of cereal, fruit, toast, fruit juice, tea and coffee included).

View from our balcony - On the beach

Triple en-suite room

Our bathroom, complete with hot tub!

 

On the beach backpackers also has many communal facilities and areas, which are available for use by the guests including a swimming pool for the hot summer days, and a bar for the hot summer nights. Many of the guests congregate around these attractions and I met many an interesting soul over a quiet beer. This is what staying in a backpackers is really about, the people. Composed of all walks of life, I have often found that backpackers are generally warm and friendly.

The swimming pool and outside chill area at On the beach

The communal bar area, doubles as a breakfast nook

The bar - would you like a warm beverage or a cold one?

The staff at On the beach were equally warm and friendly and I would definitely recommend this establishment to anyone who is interested in a quiet, relaxing, yet not altogether isolated environment. 

For more information about On the Beach backpackers in Glenashley visit http://www.durbanbackpackers.com/

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Glenashley – Experience Durban as the locals do

Kwazulu Natal on South Africa’s east coast has a very temperate climate and beautiful scenery. It is therefore no surprise that holiday makers flock to this coastal paradise all year round. There are many different destinations to choose from, depending on what you are looking for in your little getaway.

Nestled between two of the country’s holiday hotspots of Durban and Umhlanga is the residential suburb of Glenashley. This quiet town is not quite so synonymous with tourists as its neighbours and is largely a residential suburb. That is not to say that it doesn’t have its share of visitors, but those who do stay in the Durban North town of Glenashley will be presented with a very different side of Durban. Glenashley shares many of the traits of fellow North Coast gem Umdloti.

In Glenashley, one would be hard pressed to find massive hotels or holiday apartments in which to set up camp; or pubs, clubs and restaurants lining the promenade. In fact, unlike Umhlanga and Durban, there isn’t even a promenade, the peaceful beach is bordered by a simple beachfront road, littered with some of the most beautiful homes in Durban. These homes are largely owned by Durban’s wealthy and this makes Glenashley a very classy suburb.

With big properties located right on the beach, the setting is ideal for Bed and Breakfast establishments and backpackers, and many of these exist on Glenashley’s beachfront road, amptly named “The Promenade”. These idyllic mansions offer holiday makers the opportunity to experience the chilled lifestyle that Glenashley first hand.

Glenashley is a great place to visit if you wish to get involved in the local Durban and enjoy the beauty that Kwazulu Natal offers whilst staying clear of the hub bub of the tourist masses.

Glenashley Ammenities

Glenashley is conveniently located a mere 10km from Durban’s city centre and 7km from Umhlanga Rocks, the two major cities along Kwazulu Natal’s North Coast.

There are various shopping centres and restaurants in Glenashley, and many more in the neighbouring suburb of La Lucia.

Glenashley Accommodation

Most of the accommodation in Glenashley comes in the form of Bed and Breakfasts, though there are backpackers and self catering homes available. The vast majority of these are found on the beachfront and overlook the picturesque Indian ocean and undeveloped Glenashley beach.

Follow this link for reviews on places I have stayed within Glenashley: Glenashley Accommodation

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Umdloti – A North Coast Paradise

The term paradise is often associated with white sandy beaches, palm trees and cocktails with little straw hats. Paradise is often a destination, the end of a journey, somewhere to forget about life for a while. While this by no means incorrect, it does somewhat short change many other holiday destinations, who may not check the quintessential paradisiacal boxes, and yet when given a fair shot, make a compelling case that they too are deserved of the adjective.

Umdloti, on the North coast of Durban, South Africa is one of these towns. It has everything that the modern traveller could possibly desire, and offers a host of other conveniences that traditional paradises often don’t. So, what makes Umdloti so special? I’m glad you asked.

Umdloti is a truly beautiful place

Let’s start with the obvious, without which the rest of the points would be nullified. Beauty. Umdloti has one of the most beautiful stretches of beach on the Kwazulu Natal coast. Spanning about 4km, the Umdloti beach is grand enough to allow everyone their own peace of heaven. The surrounding Umdloti landscape is lush green and filled with both bird- and wildlife. Once could easily be tricked into believing they were lounging on a desert island, the outside world but a distant memory. Most of the accommodation is also built onto a hillside, which means that sweeping views of the ocean come standard.

Coupled with this paramount beauty is a peace which only small towns can deliver. The North Coast of Kwazulu Natal is famous for its larger towns of Umhlanga and Ballito which are hives of activity. This is not the case with Umdloti, where there appears to be no cause for rush or stress - just ask the man driving down the road on his scooter with his small canine in hand, or the sun kissed young boy skateboarding towards the ocean, his surfboard under one arm. The problems of the real world do not exist here, there is a contagious calm and inner peace.

The Climate in Umdloti

The Kwazulu Natal coast region, Umdloti included, has one of the best climates in the world. With hot humid summers and warm winters.  Though summer is peak season, it can become unbearably hot and air conditioning is often required to get through the night. Still, South African holiday makers flock by the thousand to Umdloti during December to bask in the hot sun and frolic in the ocean. Winter however is the best time of the year for me, as the days are warm and the nights cool. There are also additional benefits at this time of year as the swell size and consistency improves, not to mention the fact there are a lot less people.

Umdloti  is conveniently located

Here is where Umdloti really begins to pull one over on the traditional paradises. While it remains a small town nestled in the cane fields, Umdloti is a mere stones through from the South Africa's King Shaka international airport and a short 7km from the bustling metropolis of Umhlanga. This essentially means that not only is it a breeze to get to and from Umdloti, but that if ever the peace and quiet afforded by Umdloti overwhelm you, within 10 minutes you may once more revel in the hustle and bustle of a city. Which other paradisiacal destination can offer such a choice whilst remaining true to its definition?

Surfing in Umdloti

What paradise would be complete without epic surf? Umdloti really picks up the swell and has some of the heaviest waves in Durban.  Many surfers come to Umdloti from all over the coast when the conditions are right to tackle the harsh conditions, though this is not for the feint hearted. That being said, it is not always vicious, and beginners too can play in the waves when mother nature shows her softer side. Surf and sea are a huge part of Umdloti life and add that little bit of excitement to the long relaxing days.

Surf shops in Umdloti 

The nearest surfshops are in Umhlanga and Ballito, but online surf store Pollywog.co.za delivers to this area. 

Umdloti Nightlife

For a small town, Umdloti has some classy restaurants which even attract the Durban locals. These eateries invariably face the ocean, so that diners are treated to beautiful seascapes as they feast on some of the finest cuisine. The famous local pub “The Bush Tavern” has been a local favourite for years and can get a little wilder as the evening progresses. If however you are looking to paint the town red, you may be better off taking a taxi-cab to Umhlanga for the evening.

Restaurants currently located in Umdloti:

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• Java Cafe – coffee shop
• Bel Punto – Italian
• Mundo Vida - Mediterranean
• The Bush Tavern – Pub and Grill
• La Casa Nostra – Italian
• La Tasca – Pizzeria
• Rendezvous - Mediterranean

Umdloti Accommodation

Umdloti offers a huge variety of homely accommodation from self catering holiday homes and apartments for rent to bed and breakfast rooms. There are not big hotels or resorts, which helps to keep the town relaxed. Almost all the accommodation is within walking distance to the sea and will likely have sea views. For reviews on all the places I have stayed in Umdloti, please click here: Umdloti Accommodation

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Zanzibar – a turquoise delight

The Zanzibarian summer wastes no time in greeting visitors to the island with a hot, humid slap in the face. The relentless sun torments sweat laden skin and a one is forced to accept that this is going to be a somewhat balmy experience. Sunset offers little respite, as the temperature and humidity, though somewhat weakened, are still uncomfortable and the darkness brings with it a new threat... the Mosquito! Why then would anyone take the time to visit this equatorial isle ostracised by mainland Africa at the dawn of time?

The answer can be found in the popularised Swahili phrase “Hakuna Matata”. It means no worries... for the rest of your days, and is epitomised by the people of Zanzibar. Within moments of arriving, this phrase begins to seep into your skin, and your vocabulary. It is impossible to resist. The friendly local people, eke out a living in this lush paradise, with a broad pearly white smile, contrasting severely with their jet black skin. Expect many a wave or uttering of “Jambo” (Hello) en route the coast... Ahhh, the coast. This is where everything begins to click. The travel ordeals melt away to views of some of the most picturesque beaches in the world. Palm trees litter the white sand and the ocean is spread thin over the vast reef to create a myriad of greenish-blue colours. This must be where they come to take those postcard photos which have persecuted city dwellers for decades. If relaxation is all you are after, find a recliner, order a cocktail and some fresh local fruit and lose yourself in the natural beauty. Le Dolce Vita.

Zanzibar however, is more than just a pretty face, and for the more adventurous, the warm turquoise waters surrounding the island create a boundless playground to explore. One can easily lose track of time walking or paddling around the shallow reef bordering the island, simply frolicking in the water and investigating the little pools. Do be careful of sea urchins though, as they are a dime a dozen and pack a nasty prick. 

The open ocean holds more allure, and a trip into the deeper water is a must. From the deck of a traditional Dhow, one can look back on the island for yet more expressions of grandeur, while rocking slowly to the tune of the waves. The clear waters offer a sneak peek into the world below the surface. It is only a matter of time before the craving to explore this underworld takes control and donning your mask, you take the plunge into the turquoise unknown. It is a plunge that will change your life. 

Though diving can be done almost anywhere around Zanzibar, there are few hot spots which stand out, these are marine sanctuaries, most notably the waters surrounding Mnemba and Pemba islands. The strict no fishing zone ensures that the waters are teeming with tropical fish and the unparalleled visibility, that you can see them. This underwater wonderland was definitely the highlight of my island getaway, and many an hour was spent embraced by the warm Indian ocean as I spied the coral below and immersed myself in the small aquatic community containing Parrot fish, Clownfish and Starfish to name but a few. We were also lucky enough to espy both a pod of dolphins racing through the blue, which was a truly amazing sight.

Another dive and all-round sea experience is the Safari Blue tour, which includes Dhow trips to various islands, local cuisine in the form of fruit (Coconut, Pineapple, Watermelon) and a seafood lunch including Lobster, Crayfish, Prawns, Tuna steaks, Octopus, Calamari and rice, cooked in a traditional manner. The tour includes various snorkel opportunities as well as a visit to a serene Mangrove lagoon, where the trees grow in the sea. All fully comprehensive Zanzibarian day.

All in all, there is something special about Zanzibar, a calmness. It is balm for the soul... life just makes sense here. Hakuna Matata

How to get to Zanzibar

Fly into Tanzania and catch a connection to Zanzibar (either plane or boat), or fly to Zanzibar directly. If you have no desire to visit mainland Tanzania, which has plenty to offer, I would recommend flying directly into Zanzibar.

From South Africa, 1Time offers direct flights to Zanzibar.

Where to stay in Zanzibar

Relying heavily on tourism, Zanzibar has no shortage of accommodation. It is possible to book a luxury resort well in advance, which will cater for all your needs including airport transfers, accommodation, food, drinks and activities. These all inclusive packages are very convenient, and offered by some of the finest hotels the island offers, but come with a heavy price tag. For the more intrepid traveller, book into a beach bungalow or backpackers. This can be done upon arrival.

How to get around the island of Zanzibar

While almost everything you could require is within arm’s length, there are various forms of transport available should you need to get around the island. Speak to your hotel or a local Venga boy (locals who patrol beaches look to sell you anything from adventure to ornaments) and they will quickly be able to organise you a taxi ride, boat trip or a bicycle to help you get from A to B.

Must do activities in Zanzibar

Safari Blue – A full day boat tour on a traditional Dhow. The tour takes you to various islands and  snorkelling hotspots and culminates in a traditional Zanzibarian seafood feast, cooked by the locals on a beautiful tropical island. 

Mnemba Island – Take a boat trip to the crystal clear waters off Mnemba island and snorkel in the marine nature reserve.

Dolphin Tour – Watch and play with dolphins. The tour boasts a high success rate of seeing these miraculous creatures in their natural habitat.

Stone Town – Take a tour through historic stone town, a world heritage site, and drink in the cultural diversity.

More information on Zanzibar

http://zanzibar.net/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zanzibar 

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Dubai - the land of the future

Dubai is a thriving metropolis, a point where east meets west, tradition meets modern living. It really is a unique place and feels like the centre of the world.

There is so much going on in Dubai, it is hard to comprehend. Construction is underway all over the show, and the results are quite spectacular. There are also many unique wonders in Dubai, the tallest building in the world, manmade islands in the ocean, 6 star hotels and ski slopes in the desert to name but a few.

The weather in Dubai is also somewhat uncharacteristic for most tourists, it is really hot and really humid, unbearably so in and around the summer months. A lot of time is spent indoors and air conditioning is a must.

Visiting Dubai is like a glimpse into the future, a testament of the ability man has to create and shape the world we live in. Previous impossibilities are realities here. Be prepared to be amazed.

How to get to Dubai

Emirates, one of the world’s leading airlines operates out of Dubai, most Emirates flights connect in Dubai and packages are available for stopovers to visit this great city

Where to stay in Dubai

Through Emirates you can pre-book accommodation in many of Dubai's top hotels. This includes your visa and transport to and from the airport.

How to get around Dubai

Taxi's in Dubai are extremely cheap due to the oil price. Although you may have to wait in queues due to the demand (look to wait at Taxi stops where air conditioning is available).

Must do activities in Dubai

Take a day trip into the desert with one of many operators for an experience of desert life.

Take a tour of the city. Tour buses run frequently, alternatively catch a taxi and ask for a tour, this will work out cheaper and the taxi drivers are quite knowledgeable.

Visit the mall of the Emirates, the largest shopping centre in the world.

More information on Dubai

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubai

http://www.dubaitourism.ae/

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