Umhlanga Rocks – The new heart of KZN

Less than 20km north of Durban City Centre lies Umhlanga Rocks. An upmarket area, Umhlanga Rocks has been the hottest holiday destination on Durban’s North Coast for many years. From humble beginnings as a small town, Umhlanga has grown in popularity (both with locals and holidaymakers) and is now not only one of the top travel destinations in South Africa, receiving thousands of holiday makers every year, but also Durban’s new city centre. 

The development of the Gateway shopping centre, once the largest shopping centre in the Southern Hemisphere, just over 10 years ago put Umhlanga firmly on the map and spearheaded the transformation from small holiday town into central business hub. More and more businesses would move away from Durban centre in search of a better environment and Umhlanga Ridge became the natural choice. This in turn attracted more people to the area and soon the Ridge was booming with offices and apartments.

This growth has certainly changed the complexion of the once small town, but has done nothing to deter its loyal holidaymakers, and why should it? The expansion of the town has been executed perfectly, positioning the business centre in close proximity to the old village, but not entering into it. Holiday makers are thus afforded the tranquillity (if you can call beaches and streets bursting with sunburnt people tranquil) of the Umhlanga village, while being just a stone’s throw away from a thriving metropolis. The choice to venture into the hub of activity that is Umhlanga Ridge remains with the individual, which is fortunate indeed. 

While Umhlanga is not the prettiest or most serene holiday destination along Durban’s North Coast (see my articles on Umdloti & Glenashley), it does cater for a different market. The Umhlanga beachfront is jam-packed with skyscraper hotels and this is synechdochic of the town in the holiday season - everything is packed, everywhere you look there are people. Umhlanga is definitely the place to see or be seen. It is very busy and has a distinct energy about it. It offers plenty of choice in both activity, dining or partying. It is much more suited to an active holidayer. It is therefore no surprise that this town is the mecca of Matric holidays, where students come to celebrate the end of their tenure at school.

What to do in Umhlanga

Umhlanga has no shortage of activities. The beach is always a good start, and offers good swimming areas as well as decent surfing conditions. Take a walk along the promenade and drink in the sights and sounds of Umhlanga beach front, There are also ample shops and restaurants in which to grab a bite or sit and watch the waves.

Chartwell drive, the Umhlanga village main strip, also has ample restaurants and pubs to pass the hot lunch time hours in.

On rainy days most people flock to the Gateway shopping centre, to meander around or hit the movies. The centre also houses a virgin active gym, climbing wall, skate park and standing wave for surfing and is well worth a visit.

Umhlanga Nightlife

This is where Umhlanga really begins to differentiate itself from its smaller neighbours. With a huge selection of restaurants scattered around Umhlanga Rocks and Umhlanga Ridge, visitors are spoilt for choice, just remember to book in season as the best restaurants are often full.

Chartwell drive is usually busy from the afternoon and with a good few hot spots in close proximity it is a wonderful place to have a party. Simply pub hop in the safe and friendly environment. The party usually focuses around the George, an old school pub in the centre of Chartwell drive. Umhlanga is also home to a nightclub XS.

For the more serious party animals, Umhlanga is close enough to venture into Durban’s town centre, which is still the home of many of the region’s best clubs. Remember to have a designated driver or to have arranged one, as South Africa (and KZN especially) is very strict on drinking and driving. Here is more info on designated driver services in South Africa.

Umhlanga Accommodation

Umhlanga offers every kind of accommodation under the sun. From major hotel chains to small guesthouses, you will be able to find exactly what you are looking for. Being a popular holiday destination though, you are likely to pay a premium for this accommodation, especially in season. For reviews on places I have stayed within Umhlanga visit my page: Umhlanga Accommodation

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Zanzibar – a turquoise delight

The Zanzibarian summer wastes no time in greeting visitors to the island with a hot, humid slap in the face. The relentless sun torments sweat laden skin and a one is forced to accept that this is going to be a somewhat balmy experience. Sunset offers little respite, as the temperature and humidity, though somewhat weakened, are still uncomfortable and the darkness brings with it a new threat... the Mosquito! Why then would anyone take the time to visit this equatorial isle ostracised by mainland Africa at the dawn of time?

The answer can be found in the popularised Swahili phrase “Hakuna Matata”. It means no worries... for the rest of your days, and is epitomised by the people of Zanzibar. Within moments of arriving, this phrase begins to seep into your skin, and your vocabulary. It is impossible to resist. The friendly local people, eke out a living in this lush paradise, with a broad pearly white smile, contrasting severely with their jet black skin. Expect many a wave or uttering of “Jambo” (Hello) en route the coast... Ahhh, the coast. This is where everything begins to click. The travel ordeals melt away to views of some of the most picturesque beaches in the world. Palm trees litter the white sand and the ocean is spread thin over the vast reef to create a myriad of greenish-blue colours. This must be where they come to take those postcard photos which have persecuted city dwellers for decades. If relaxation is all you are after, find a recliner, order a cocktail and some fresh local fruit and lose yourself in the natural beauty. Le Dolce Vita.

Zanzibar however, is more than just a pretty face, and for the more adventurous, the warm turquoise waters surrounding the island create a boundless playground to explore. One can easily lose track of time walking or paddling around the shallow reef bordering the island, simply frolicking in the water and investigating the little pools. Do be careful of sea urchins though, as they are a dime a dozen and pack a nasty prick. 

The open ocean holds more allure, and a trip into the deeper water is a must. From the deck of a traditional Dhow, one can look back on the island for yet more expressions of grandeur, while rocking slowly to the tune of the waves. The clear waters offer a sneak peek into the world below the surface. It is only a matter of time before the craving to explore this underworld takes control and donning your mask, you take the plunge into the turquoise unknown. It is a plunge that will change your life. 

Though diving can be done almost anywhere around Zanzibar, there are few hot spots which stand out, these are marine sanctuaries, most notably the waters surrounding Mnemba and Pemba islands. The strict no fishing zone ensures that the waters are teeming with tropical fish and the unparalleled visibility, that you can see them. This underwater wonderland was definitely the highlight of my island getaway, and many an hour was spent embraced by the warm Indian ocean as I spied the coral below and immersed myself in the small aquatic community containing Parrot fish, Clownfish and Starfish to name but a few. We were also lucky enough to espy both a pod of dolphins racing through the blue, which was a truly amazing sight.

Another dive and all-round sea experience is the Safari Blue tour, which includes Dhow trips to various islands, local cuisine in the form of fruit (Coconut, Pineapple, Watermelon) and a seafood lunch including Lobster, Crayfish, Prawns, Tuna steaks, Octopus, Calamari and rice, cooked in a traditional manner. The tour includes various snorkel opportunities as well as a visit to a serene Mangrove lagoon, where the trees grow in the sea. All fully comprehensive Zanzibarian day.

All in all, there is something special about Zanzibar, a calmness. It is balm for the soul... life just makes sense here. Hakuna Matata

How to get to Zanzibar

Fly into Tanzania and catch a connection to Zanzibar (either plane or boat), or fly to Zanzibar directly. If you have no desire to visit mainland Tanzania, which has plenty to offer, I would recommend flying directly into Zanzibar.

From South Africa, 1Time offers direct flights to Zanzibar.

Where to stay in Zanzibar

Relying heavily on tourism, Zanzibar has no shortage of accommodation. It is possible to book a luxury resort well in advance, which will cater for all your needs including airport transfers, accommodation, food, drinks and activities. These all inclusive packages are very convenient, and offered by some of the finest hotels the island offers, but come with a heavy price tag. For the more intrepid traveller, book into a beach bungalow or backpackers. This can be done upon arrival.

How to get around the island of Zanzibar

While almost everything you could require is within arm’s length, there are various forms of transport available should you need to get around the island. Speak to your hotel or a local Venga boy (locals who patrol beaches look to sell you anything from adventure to ornaments) and they will quickly be able to organise you a taxi ride, boat trip or a bicycle to help you get from A to B.

Must do activities in Zanzibar

Safari Blue – A full day boat tour on a traditional Dhow. The tour takes you to various islands and  snorkelling hotspots and culminates in a traditional Zanzibarian seafood feast, cooked by the locals on a beautiful tropical island. 

Mnemba Island – Take a boat trip to the crystal clear waters off Mnemba island and snorkel in the marine nature reserve.

Dolphin Tour – Watch and play with dolphins. The tour boasts a high success rate of seeing these miraculous creatures in their natural habitat.

Stone Town – Take a tour through historic stone town, a world heritage site, and drink in the cultural diversity.

More information on Zanzibar

http://zanzibar.net/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zanzibar 

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Durban North Coast Vibes

Although growing rapidly, Durban north coast is still very seasonal. Quiet in the winters and teaming with life during the peak holiday seasons in Summer.There are many beautiful coastal towns along the coast from which to choose, below is a brief description of some of the major ones.

Umhlanga Rocks

Umhlanga has transformed from a quiet little seaside town north of Durban, into the top holiday destination on the North Coast. Huge hotels line the seafront and the newly built Gateway shopping centre brings up the rear of the town. Development is rife as the town snowballs.

The general vibe in Umhlanga is hectic with loads of people and lots to do. The main beach took a knock from the 50 year swell which recently hit the east coast of South Africa, and it is a shadow of its former self. Still it is a great place to be seen, and probably the busiest beach on the North Coast. Umhlanga is also the priciest of the North Coast towns especially when it comes to accommodation. This is definitely the place to be if you want to party ... not so if you are keen to just get away from it all.

Ballito Bay

Ballito is quickly following in Umhlanga's footsteps as development booms. It is however not so compact, and with two main beaches affords visitors a little more privacy. Ballito's layout is also more spacious with less skyscrapers and more apartments. This is my favourite town in the North Coast, It affords the convenience of being in a big town (shops, restaurants, bars, clubs etc) with the privacy of a small town. The main beaches of Willard and Thompsons are also some of the nicest beaches on the North Coast.

Umdloti

Umdloti is a great town to kick back and relax. It is made up mainly of houses, and most of the people who holiday there are regulars. There is more of a community vibe. The beach is nice and the break is great for surfing. The town does lack some amenities, but with Umhlanga just down the road, there is nothing you can get if you are prepared to drive a short way.

Zinkwazi

Zinkwazi is remote, over an hours drive from Durban central, it is the perfect place to get away, do nothing and relax. It is a very small scale town, with very few amenities. Self-catering is a must.

Glenashley 
Glenashley is a small residential suburb in Durban North. Though predominantly inhabited by locals, the town does cater for the relaxed holiday maker. 

How to get to Durban

Flights are available into Durban from all major airports in South Africa with airlines such as SAA, Kulula.com, 1time and Mango.

Durban is also within driving distance of South Africa's main airport - Oliver Tambo in Johannesburg. Driving from Cape Town is not recommended unless you want to see the Country.

Where to stay in Durban

Being coastal towns, there are many hotels, apartments and B&Bs for rent. In the off season accommodation won’t be a problem, but book well in advance for the high season from December - January.

Please check the resources below for accommodation options.

http://www.safarinow.com/destinations/durban/hub.aspx 

http://www.wheretostay.co.za/kzn/dm/accommodation/durban-north.php 

How to get around Durban

Most of the towns are small enough to get around by foot. Cars are advisable however for longer commutes as public transport isn't great.

Durban Nightlife

While most of the above mentioned towns sport their own bars (and even small clubs), the major town nightlife can be found on Florida Road in Durban centre. This road is packed with restaurants, bars and clubs and is sure to cater for each and every need. Do be sure to have a designated driver though, as Kwazulu Natal has a strict zero tolerance on drinking and driving.

Must do activities in Durban

Durban - Visit uShaka marine world in Durban central.

Durban - Watch the surfing at New Pier, a local break which some of the worlds top surfers call home.

Umhlanga - Visit Gateway shopping centre.

Umhlanga - The first week of December is  one of the most popular matric holiday destinations in South Africa.

Ballito - Chill out on Thompsons beach - best during low tide where you can wade out far into the ocean.

Ballito - The New Years Eve street party in Ballito is legendary.

More information about Durban

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durban

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Lanzarote - the lively island

The Canary Islands are a small group of volcanic islands in the Atlantic ocean just off the west coast of Morocco. Although closer to Africa, they belong to Spain. The currency is the euro and the main language is Spanish, although due to the huge tourism industry, English, French and German are also common.

Lanzarote is the perfect holiday island (hence it’s huge popularity). The weather is great year round, with hot summers and mild winters. The constrast of the island is quite amazing. Enter the holiday towns of Costa Teguise, Peurto del Carmen or Playa Blanca and you will be in tourist heaven. These towns are built specifically to cater for the influx of tourists, with restaurants, bars and clubs to boot. There are beautiful beaches (especially Papagayo in Playa Blanca) and plenty to do. Costa Teguise is especially synonimous with wind surfing and Puerto del Carmen with scuba diving.

The true heart of Lanzarote however lies outside the typical tourist towns.

Famara in the North West is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, with a spectacular mountain backdrop, it also happens to revolve around surfing. There are numerous surf schools in Famara, and finding a local who doesn’t surf takes some doing. It is definitely my favourite part of the island and a must visit.

La Santa just north of Famara is also surf mad with one of the meanest breaks in Lanzarote known as “The slab”. The quiet town is also home to a world famous fitness centre where locals will brag Brad Pitt acquired his buff body prior to his latest movie roles.

Puerto Calero has a small marina which often plays host to yachting races and deep sea fishing competitions. Watch the races from the shore or dabble in some deep sea fishing of your own on board one of the local boats.

Lanzarote also hosts the Ironman triathalon in the middle of the year, where some of the world’s finest athletes compete. A must for all fitness fanatics.

The Canary islands and Lanzarote in particular are also famous for their carnivals, with villages hosting parties throughout the year. The Spanish really know how to party, prepare yourself for a rough day after should you indulge in the festivities.

Getting off the beaten track and mingling with the locals is a must in Lanzarote, lest you find yourself in just another tourist trap.

How to get to Lanzarote

There are many charter flights available from Europe (mainly UK) with such airlines as Easyjet, Ryanair and Spanair (there are numerous more). Iberia also offer a flight from Madrid to Lanzarote.

The flight time from UK is around 3-4 hours. From Madrid the flight time is approximately 2 hours.

Where to stay in Lanzarote

There are numerous hotels and apartments for rent in the major tourist cities of Puerto del Carmen, Playa Blanca and Costa Teguise.I highly recommend staying in one of the smaller, less tourist driving towns. We stayed in Tabayesco, a small village in the North of Lanzarote. It was beautiful and relaxing. For more information visit http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g187477-d1978371-Reviews-Casitas_Tabayesco-Lanzarote_Canary_Islands.html
Accommodation is also a lot cheaper than the coastal towns of the Mediterranean area.

How to get around the island of Lanzarote

Although existent, public transport is not ideal in Lanzarote. Hiring of a car is a necessity if you wish to see the island. Alternatively you can set up camp in one of the holiday towns and relax, all necessary amenities are within walking distance.

Must do activities in Lanzarote

Famara beach - take a surf lesson or rent a board and jump into the deep end. Marvel and the beautiful mountain setting from the surf backline.

Papagayo beach - rub shoulders with the rich and famous on this tiny picturesque beach.

Carnival - the main carnival is in February ... try get there for a week of mayhem.

Dolores - celebrate the Dolores  carnival held in the centre of the island in September.

Playa Chica, Puerto del Carmen - learn to scuba dive in a sheltered bay teaming with fish.

Peurto Calero - go deep sea fishing on board one of the local boats.

Nazaret - wine, dine and party at Lagomar , a great venue built into the side of a mountain.

More information on Lanzarote

http://lanzarote.com

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanzarote

Pictures of Lanzarote

Famara beach with mountain backdrop

Sea view from Tabayesco Village

Peurto del Carmen beach

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